End of an era: Red Lantern to close after 23 years
Darlinghurst’s Red Lantern will serve its final meals on Saturday, 22 November, bringing down the curtain on a 23-year run that reshaped perceptions of Vietnamese dining in Australia.
The iconic Vietnamese restaurant not only cemented Luke Nguyen as an international celebrity chef but also became a creative hub for his sister and business partner Pauline Nguyen, and chef Mark Jensen, who each built successful careers in publishing, broadcasting, and advocacy alongside running the venue.
A difficult winter across Sydney’s dining scene played a big role in the decision not to renew the lease. “Diner numbers had dropped,” Jensen told Good Food, pointing to the economy, persistent rain and the constant lure of new restaurant openings as contributing factors.
When Red Lantern opened in Surry Hills in 2002, the Nguyen siblings were part of a new wave of “Cabramatta kids” bringing Vietnamese food into the city. Pauline Nguyen recalled the shift in perception at the time: “The prevailing attitude to Vietnamese restaurants was formica tables and cheap produce. We thought ‘let’s bring this food to a new audience, with world-class service and quality produce’,” she told Good Food.
Over the years, Red Lantern became known for its caramelised pork, prawn and pork fairy floss rice cakes, and its ability to evolve through challenges such as the global financial crisis. “We either go into the fetal position or make some changes,” Pauline said.
Despite shifting locations in Darlinghurst, diners sometimes still thought the restaurant was in Surry Hills. Along the way, Red Lantern survived where many neighbours did not, including Cafe Paci and Lankan Filling Station.
Even as Jensen and Pauline’s personal relationship changed, they continued to run the restaurant and campaign for small independents. “Even after 22 years, Red Lantern’s contemporary take on Vietnamese flavours still feels, well, contemporary,” the most recent Good Food Guide noted.
The restaurant will host special events and chef collaborations before closing. Luke Nguyen will continue his work at Sydney Fish Market, Jensen is focused on his Tiger Purrr Chai brand, and Pauline Nguyen is building her career as a keynote speaker.
“If there’s one thing I’m really proud of, between the three of us we’ve built a real ecosystem that will continue,” Pauline said.
Jonathan Jackson, 17th September 2025
