Review: The Public Mediterranean restaurant at Cammeray

I once worked with a woman who didn’t like tapas.

Now, it wasn’t the combination of flavours, rather, she hated sharing food. I know, right? Apparently her friends consumed more than their fair share. Perhaps some new friends might be in order. Nevertheless, the premise of shared plates has become a real feature of our dining landscape, and although recent reviewer rhetoric bemoans its proliferation, I’m all open arms.

After all, the foundation of most cultures lies in sharing food at a communal table. You can solve the world’s problems before your last bite. That’s why I found it surprising that new Mediterranean restaurant The Public has “sharing” and “not sharing” sections on the menu.

Housemade taramsolata and pita bread. Picture: Virgina Young

“Oh you can share if you want, but some people just don’t like to share,” our affable waitress explains. The former Epoque Belgium Beer Café has been turned into a bright and energetic venue by new owners Damien Barrow, James Christopher and William Christopher. In fact, it’s hedging its bets as a bar or a restaurant. Providing you don’t mind the cheers of beer-swilling footy fans at the front, then it’s quite a solid local.

Blonde woods, white chairs, pale blue tones and a feature wall defined by a series of hexagons makes it feel more Scandinavian than Mediterranean. The combination of bar, booths, high and low tables make it clear they’re hoping to become a casual communal hub.

And as such, service is sincere and suits it to a tee. Although the wine list leans on the monotony of safe, big-selling varietals, the beers on tap are more diverse.

Greek style BBQ free range chicken, papouÕs potatoes, tabouleh, charred lemon and pita bread. Picture: Virginia Young

In the kitchen, chef James Featherstone walks a tightrope of passable pub grub and restaurant refinement with a series of hits and misses. You can head down the burger and schnitzel route, but you’ll be better rewarded by a Mediterranean sojourn.

The textural and piquant taramasalata is a solid start. Doughy, charred pita provides a great vehicle to your lips. Then the sticky, sweet, savoury and sour seduction of pan-fried kefalograviera cheese finds beautiful balance with licks of honey and squeezes of charred lemon.

The three owners of The Public, Damian Barrow, James Christopher & Will Christopher. Picture: Supplied

Prawn and ouzo saganaki, though, is quite pedestrian. Rather than a rich tomato umami embrace, it’s diluted and underseasoned. Meanwhile, eggplant and sweet potato moussaka looks like it’s ingredients were thrown in from a metre high. It’s a sloppy mess, but not in that magnificent way food can be sometimes.

Lemon saves barbecue spatchcock that is a touch dry, but the signature “papou’s potatoes” pleases. Don’t expect a culinary crusade, but for those looking for local experiences at a reasonable price, then it’s well worth sharing them here.

Follow Anthony Huckstep on Twitter@anthuckstep

The Public

Score: 6/10

Address: 429 Miller St, Cammeray

Phone: 9925 0050

Hours: Daily 11am-late

Food: Mediterranean

Drink: Licensed

Price: Small $7-$16; large $24-$28; dessert $12

Source: The DailyTelegraph   Anthony Huckstep    May26th 2015