Neil Perry on elevating Qantas’ in flight dining
From Rockpool at Circular Quay to his current Double Bay ventures, Neil Perry has long been a name at the heart of Australia’s dining scene. But while many know him for reshaping fine dining on the ground, Perry has also spent decades redefining meals at 30,000 feet as Qantas’s culinary partner since 1997.
High-altitude dining has its quirks, and Perry says it has “evolved alongside the aircraft, which has made life a little easier.” Newer aircraft, such as the Airbus A380, Boeing 787 Dreamliner and the incoming A350, offer better humidity and airflow.
“Those old 747s had only four percent humidity—really dry—and there was no fresh air intake. Bread rolls would dry out almost instantly,” he told Travel + Leisure. “Now, with better humidity, we can maintain the integrity of things like bread and other dishes much better.”
Cooking in the skies requires adapting recipes to account for dulled taste receptors. “At 30,000 feet, taste changes significantly because your taste receptors dehydrate quickly,” Perry explained. His team adjusts flavours and textures to ensure passengers still get the full experience.
And while most travellers notice seats or entertainment systems, Perry points to tech upgrades behind the galley curtain: “There are better ovens, toasters and even sandwich presses on aircraft now. The technology has improved, but the fundamentals of what we serve have remained consistent,” he told Travel + Leisure.
Asian flavours remain central to Perry’s philosophy, both in his restaurants and Qantas lounges. “When I was growing up, my dad loved Chinese food, and we’d often visit Sydney’s Chinatown,” he said. That early influence later shaped his approach to dishes like laksa in Singapore, sambal skate and his popular spicy dumplings. “They’re a real hit! We use a 50/50 ratio of fiery chili oil and black vinegar, which gives them that punch.”
Back at Margaret in Double Bay, where diners line up before doors open, Perry keeps things simple. “At Margaret, it’s all about beautiful, high-quality produce,” he said.
“Whether it’s fish, lamb or chicken, the goal is to enhance the natural flavours without overwhelming them.”
For Perry, whether in the sky or on the ground, it comes down to the same thing: “It’s about creating great memories for people, whether they’re in a restaurant, a lounge or on a flight. That’s the essence of hospitality.”
Jonathan Jackson, 2nd September 2025
