Browse Directory

Bar Fly: Shadow Wine Bar, Northbridge

IF only there were more hotel bars like Shadow. Then again, Alex Hotel, the establishment that Shadow is attached to, isn’t your run-of-the-mill inn.


Shadow Wine Bar, Northbridge. Picture: Richard Hatherly

The latest project from the founders of Little Creatures, this boutique hotel is a game-changer as far as Northbridge accommodation options go and its in-house bar cum diner boasts similar swagger.

The first thing you’ll notice about Shadow is the look of the place. From the dramatically lit, linen-dressed tables to the courteous, neatly attired staff, the room is unabashedly old-school.

It’s the sort of environment where sipping Campari sodas ($8) and Pastis ($11) feels practically mandatory.

But as much as I adore traditional aperitifs, it’s hard to ignore the wine list and its 23-glass salute to good drinking.

The cellar isn’t just notable for serving vinous exotica such as dry and floral Italian passerinas and supple Barossa Valley roussanne, either. Management has gone with 100ml pours rather than the industry-standard 150ml and, as much as some people might miss those extra gulps, I’m a fan.


Shadow Wine Bar in Northbridge. Photo: Richard Hatherly

Why? For starters, lower quantities mean lower prices. Save for a few lash-out French cuvées, a glass of vino will set you back between $8 and $11 – not bad for these kinds of wines. And because you’re getting less alcohol per serve, it’s entirely possible to order a second glass of something interesting, drink it all and still be right to drive home for dinner.

Or you could just make camp here, go hard on bar snacks such as crabmeat on potato crisps ($7 each) and tiny steak tartare toasts ($6) and keep those good times going.

As I was saying, if only there were more hotel bars like this.

 

Source: Perth Now, Max Veenhuyzen, July 15th 2015