Banjo Harris Plane runs an informed cellar with a splash of clever matching

Attica sommelier Banjo Harris Plane's trusty corkscrew is a Code 38 Stealth and he currently rates the 2011 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay as Australia's best.

Attica sommelier Banjo Harris Plane.

Is food and wine matching overrated?

Not at all. It's exaggerated perhaps, in that it's not the be-all and end-all - sometimes you just want something enjoyable to drink. When done well, however, it's one of those "greater than the sum of its parts" kind of thing.

What's your preferred drink at home?

There is always riesling in the fridge and Islay whisky in the cupboard.

What's the most expensive bottle of wine you've sold?

1996 Domaine Leroy Richebourg. I think it was about $1500.

What do you do when a customer tells you a bottle is corked?

Weep into my suit pocket ... usually, we'll discuss the aromas and flavours that have led the guest to describing it as corked. TCA, or cork taint, is a specific fault but the word corked has become a bit of a byword for anything that might be perceived as wrong with a bottle. We taste every bottle that is served in the restaurant before the guest does, so this has only happened twice since I've been at Attica (March 2011).

How do you keep your restaurant's opened wines fresh?

With a product called Winesave, which uses argon, a colourless, odourless, non-toxic gas that is heavier than air. We pump a small amount into each bottle at the end of the night and it sits above the wine, acting as a shield against oxidation. It also works with sparkling wines.

What's the biggest selling variety on your list right now?

Pinot noir.

What's the best question a customer has ever asked you about wine?

'What is the best shiraz to go with my oysters?'

What's the stupidest question a customer has ever asked you about wine?

While it is true there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers (especially in wine), being asked for a decaf espresso martini is at the very far reaches of decency.

What are you pouring right now that you're excited about?

2011 Giaconda Estate Chardonnay, Australia's best, from a vintage that many decry, but to my mind has produced some of the most vibrant and mineral whites this country has seen. And 2010 Prieure Roch Les Clous from Ladoix-Serrigny in Burgundy, pinot noir made by the co-director of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Sappy, fragrant and energetic.

What corkscrew do you use?

It sounds like some form of hi-tech missile, but it's called the Code 38 Stealth. We also employ The Durand (look it up) for older bottles

What wine glass(es) do you use at home?

Riedel and Zalto

How do you justify your restaurant's mark-ups?

Brilliantly clean high-quality glassware, carefully managed appropriate cellar temperature, informed and friendly recommendations from a well-trained team of sommeliers, and there's this bloke in the kitchen called Ben Shewry who will cook you dinner for whatever you're drinking.

Source: The Australian, 3 September 2013