Iain Hewitson revives Clichy for four nights at Carlton's Bistra
Legendary Australian chef Iain Hewitson is bringing back one of Melbourne's most fondly remembered dining institutions, with Clichy set to return for four nights as part of the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival.
The Collingwood fine diner, which Hewitson co-founded in 1977 with food critic Sigmund Jorgensen — known for his association with the Montsalvat artist community — closed its doors in 1982 but will be reborn at Carlton restaurant Bistra from March 23 to 26.
Hewitson, better known as Huey, described Clichy's original philosophy as "original food in the French manner" — a concept built on Australian produce, French technique and creative freedom rather than classical orthodoxy. The approach was adventurous for its era; Hewitson once attempted a marinated tuna dish with Thai-style slaw influenced by Danish-born Sydney chef Mogens Bay Esbensen. "But it didn't work," he told Broadsheet. "Was far too ahead of its time."
Bistra chef Alex Nishizawa will helm the kitchen, working from Hewitson's original recipes with what the veteran chef describes as "a bit of poetic licence." The four-course menu will be lighter on offal than the original — "Australians in those days ate lots of offal" — though a chocolate and nut gateaux long requested by former patrons and staff will feature.
The revival coincides with the launch of Hewitson's self-published memoir, Who Called the Cook a Bastard?, which chronicles his career arc from folk singer to restaurateur to television personality. Produced in collaboration with his wife Ruth Krawat and Melbourne design collective TCYK, the book's aesthetic influence extends into the dining room, where two-storey fabric sculptures will reimagine both Clichy and Bistra across the restaurant's two spaces.
Before finding fame on screen, Hewitson built a substantial restaurant career spanning more than ten venues, including Tolarno Bar & Bistro in St Kilda, Big Huey's Diner in South Melbourne and Fleurie in Toorak. He reflects warmly on the era Clichy represented. "They were lovely times," he told Broadsheet. "It was the days that being in the restaurant business was a bit of fun... a very interesting, very different era."
Having stepped back from television in 2019, Hewitson has since found an unexpected new following online. "Instantly we had all these people who said things like, 'we thought you were dead'," he said, taking the reception in stride.
Now re-energised, he says the Clichy project feels like a homecoming. "It's like back to the old days of television — warts and all and a bit of fun."
Clichy at Bistra runs March 23–26 in Carlton. Bookings essential
Jonathan Jackson, 23trd March 2026
