Melbourne goes Shik

Korean food specialist Peter Jo, otherwise known as "kimchi Pete" on social media, has now opened his first solo restaurant in Melbourne.

The venture comes after years of working in various pop-ups, doing some research in Korea and working in some of Sydney’s best kitchens like Momofuku Seiobo, Vini and Berta.

He has called it Restaurant Shik.

The restaurant in Niagara Lane is named for a character in the Korean language.

And that character can mean a number of things, from a celebration and knowledge to a meal or a technique.

What he wants to do is break the mould of what’s classified as Korean food in Australia.

So there’s no fried chicken.

Instead, he is applying that Korean technique to more commonly seen Australian ingredients such as lamb, beetroot, coriander and even Brussels sprouts.

"I'm taking the journey that Italian food took 10 years ago when it used to be just pizza and pasta, and now there's regional restaurants," Jo told Gourmet Traveller.

Besides his experience working in some of Sydney’s top restaurants, his is also drawing from drawing on the family pedigree of running stand-out spots Madang and DAnjee in Sydney's Koreatown.

The range of Shik dishes includes crisp jeon of oysters or seasonal vegetables, tackle the tartare-like yukhoe served with Korean pear and witlof for wrapping, and stay for the oxtail jjim with beef.

And of course, there’s a classic cabbage kimchi, of course, although Jo might well add beetroot, Brussels sprout or fennel and coriander ferments to the mix.

"I feel like I'm opening a Korean restaurant not knowing what Korean food is anymore," Jo told Gourmet Traveller.  "My understanding keeps changing."

Jo is sourcing the lesser-known cuts for the grill such as short plate, intercostal and chuck tail flap from Vic’s Meats.

The drinks list includes mostly Korean beers with a few European sours. And the wine list has been put together by Jo, Liz Carey (ex-MoVida) and sommelier Josh Begbi.

Leon Getler March 22nd 2018.