Shaun Quade’s Lume loses partner Fiechtner, sommelier Humble
It crashed into Melbourne’s public consciousness last year with a launch that both thrilled and polarised hardcore foodies, but already big changes are afoot at South Melbourne’s Lume.
Chef-partner John-Paul Fiechtner and sommelier Sally Humble have departed, leaving head chef and partner Shaun Quade in sole control. “I’m disappointed to see JP go because he’s played a key role in the restaurant’s early development, but to be honest, we’d always agreed that he could only be here in the short term while we set up the venue and got things rolling. It was never the plan for Sally to go but she decided to leave with him,” says Quade. “I’m talking to a couple of somms … (and) we could have a new person for the job by the end of the month.” Quade has recruited several juniors to fill the Fiechtner void, and the former head bartender at Dinner by Heston, Orlando Marzo, is a new recruit to the bar team. “Slowly but surely (depending on who you ask) we’re succeeding in what we set out to do (and) I’m never going to put my name to something I haven’t thrown 100 per cent of myself into,” Quade says.
GOLD COAST: Gritty inner-urban Brisbane Thai diner Longtime has sprouted Havaianas and boardshorts, and headed for the coast. Rick Shores has opened on the Gold Coast at Burleigh Heads, a spinoff from the successful, predominantly Thai mothership in Fortitude Valley. While Rick Shores has a modern Thai focus (via Longtime’s exec-chef Ben Bertei), other culinary influences come from India, Vietnam and Japan. The location is a cracker and the staff a dream team. Head chef is Jake Pregnell, last cooking at Maroochydore’s Corbins.
BRISBANE: It’s back to the city for chef Braden White. Having slipped into a polo shirt and loafers Noosa-style as executive chef of Ricky’s and Wood Fire Grill last year, White’s back in Brissie with his former bosses, the Moubarak family (The Moubment Group), owners of a clutch of eateries ranging from Gerard’s Bistro in Fortitude Valley to Laruche and the ever-expanding Hatch & Co brand. They’ve put White in charge of their next venture, The Apo, due to open this week in Fortituide Valley’s Bakery Lane.
MELBOURNE: “Tulum is my favourite Turkish cheese, made from goat’s milk from Eastern Anatolia,” says chef Coskun Uysal. “It matures for six months in goatskin in caves.” Tulum is also the name of the Turkish expat’s new restaurant in Balaclava. Uysal moved to Melbourne several years ago after a successful career in Istanbul and those of us who have eaten his contemporary take on Ottoman cuisine should be pleased about the fruition of his dreams. “As you would expect, the food will mainly be Turkish, and I will use classic Ottoman cuisine with some modern twists, but always taking advantage of Melbourne’s seasonal produce,” says Uysal. The food will be mezzes style, for sharing. Expect an April launch.
HOBART: What now at The Source, premier restaurant at David Walsh’s grand and ambitious MONA complex? Executive chef Philippe Leban, who joined in 2010, has left the building, reportedly with plans for his own enterprise in Hobart. We understand a number of kitchen staff have also pulled the pin. “Some internal politics there about simpler food and a dumbing down of produce led to his resignation,” says our source, one of the defectors. MONA confirmed that former executive sous chef Vincent Trim, a Kiwi who has been at the site five years, has taken over as executive chef, steering a new Mediterranean direction with longer opening times.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA: An institution closed forever last week. Fino, at Willunga, has been sold to locals Tarik Marco and Sandrine Maltret (La Terre, Willunga) who plan a new restaurant within the heritage sandstone building, La Mistral. The couple moved to Australia from southern France three years ago, and opened La Terre in Willunga early last year. Marco, who trained with Alain Ducasse, is from Provence, while Maltret is from Paris. Fino’s vendors, chef David Swain and manager Sharon Romeo, were at Willunga last week to farewell their restaurant. “I’m a bit emotional, to tell you the truth,” said Romeo.
SYDNEY: Today is, of course, N-Day as well as Australia Day. Noma opens for its 11-week season at Barangaroo at lunchtime. We don’t think they’re taking walk-ins.
Source: The Australian - Life, John Lethlean, 26th January 2016
