Chloe and Kelly review: The Inn Mahogany Creek
CHLOE and I (Kelly) don’t like heading too far out of the city.
It’s not that we don’t like the fresh air, it’s just we like a tipple with dinner and that means a coin flip to see who’s going to drive.
But, after a hot tip, we headed up the hill to the Inn Mahogany Creek. Lucky it also has accommodation, so no coin flip required.
THE VENUE
Forty minutes out of Perth, the newly renovated historic inn is full of character and charm.
Run by the family that owns the Rose & Crown in Guildford, it has beautiful high ceilings and wood fires — perfect for a quick getaway with a loved one.
We got the evening started with a True Hill Merlot ($39) in front of the open fire. Like its sister venue, the Inn serves polished Aussie pub grub.
THE FOOD
Our first dish was just that: a special of Esperance bug with avocado and truffle ($19).
Maybe we’re behind the times but I’m only familiar with the Moreton Bay bug variety. But as usual, west is best. This was the most delicious bug I’ve ever eaten.
It was perfectly cooked and had a more earthy flavour than its Moreton Bay mates.
But the truffle got a bit lost with the avocado salsa. Actually, it wasn’t needed, and I don’t often say that about truffles.
I’m usually ashamed at Chloe’s obsession with deep-fried potatoes but this time it led to one of the most spectacular food finds this year.
The hand-cut chips ($12) were good, but the dip of house-smoked oil churned into a creamy aioli was a sensual experience. The chef needs to make vats of this aioli. Once you try it you’ll be hooked.
With our second serve of smoked aioli ready, our mains were delivered, but how does one add smoked aioli to panned prawn linguine ($25)?
You don’t and to be honest I didn’t want to. Not so that I could savour the prawn linguine, but so as not to ruin the aioli.
Don’t get me wrong, the prawns were well cooked and the pasta al dente, but the sauce lacked zest and was watery.
My food FOMO (Fear of Missing Out) increased when Chloe tucked into her house-smoked beef brisket ($33).
Not only had the chef worked his magic with the Texan barbecues in the courtyard (perfect for a summer’s day), but he’d managed to keep all the moisture and delicious fattiness a good brisket should have.
While I was pushing around my linguine in its puddle of sauce, a divine light shone down to our table as a jazzed-up pub classic arrived — smoked chicken parmigiana ($33).
This wasn’t your run of the mill chicken parmi. The chef here is a big fan of smoking his food and he’s very good at it.
The chicken had been smoked and then cooked sous-vide, giving it a depth of flavour I don’t think has ever been imparted before to the humble parmi.
Almost ready to waddle back to our cosy rooms, we agreed we’d try the wattle seed brulée ($14), a classic French dessert with a bit of Aussie flora mixed in.
We love to see Australian ingredients used well and this was indeed the case, the wattle seed imparting an almost nutty flavour. It was a great finish.
Too full for pillow fights, we turned in, discussing how Inn Mahogany Creek will be our new city getaway.
KELLY’S VERDICT: That’s it — we’re getting a Texan smoker!
CHLOE’S VERDICT: Picture-perfect location with great food to match.
OVERALL: Forty minutes drive is nothing for food like this.
Source: Perth Now, Chloe James and James Ramsay, 18th September 2015
Originally published as: Chloe and Kelly review: The Inn Mahogany Creek